South Africa
BLANKbottle Autumn Equinox 2022
"This is a blend of Weisser Riesling, Semillon and Sauvignon blanc from Elgin
DISCLAIMER: I am no activist and I don't belong to any kind of organisation. I pick grapes from everywhere and respect each area for its contribution to a specific wine. In this newsletter however, I’m focusing on what Elgin does well and exploring the possible relevance of the Autumn Equinox theory. The Autumn Equinox theory… The more I learn about farming and wine, the more I wonder how the olden-day farmers decided what to plant where. Nowadays, before planting, farmers make use of professionals who scan the soil and dissect and analyse the different soil layers, physically as well as chemically. They study topographical data and in some cases make use of satellites and even drones. They construct terroir models in order to understand… Viticulturists (like Jaco Engelbrecht who works for me on a consultancy basis) also map the great Grand Cru vineyards of Europe which enables them to compare our new sites to the greats of the world.
All this is done with one goal in mind: figuring out what to plant where! Ultimately, however, they feed from decisions made in ancient times. Times when they got it right without satellites, drones and engineering surveyors. Times when they had time to observe… One such approach that was often used, is the Autumn Equinox theory. In the Northern Hemisphere the autumnal equinox falls on 22/23 September, as the sun crosses the celestial equator on its way south. In the Southern Hemisphere the Autumn equinox occurs on 20/21 March, when the sun moves back north across the equator - otherwise known as the “Harvest moon". Traditionally it marked the end of the harvest season, where they took stock of what was grown and gathered and gave thanks for what they had received. So their theory was very simple: plant whatever crop ripens a few days before, on, or after (basically as close as possible to) the Autumn Equinox. And that got me thinking about Elgin. During February and early March when the heat waves hit the Western Cape, grapes in Elgin are still green, with sugars around 16° Balling.
The vines have plenty of energy to sustain the heat and by the time the heat waves have passed, moderate temperatures take the grapes through a mild, slow ripening phase. This enables the vines to produce fully ripe grapes. And then, on the Autumn Equinox, the grapes usually have a sugar content of 21 - 23° balling, which is when we pick. So today I decided to release a mixed case of ELGIN wines (including a brand new wine in our portfolio) - stuff that ripened on 23 March, 28 March and a blend with a average picking time at the Autumn Equinox" - Winemaker' notes
BLANKbottle Orbitofrontal Cortex 2023
"Twelve different grape varieties make up the blend here, produced by Pieter Walser using his conscious mind. (There was a one-off "unconscious" assemblage as well!) Clairette Blanche, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and Roussanne are all important components, creating a complex, layered white with lime, pear, rose water and orange zest flavours, a nip of tannin and a lingering finish." - Tim Atkin MW
BLANKbottle Familiemoord 2023
"Family Murder - is one of Pieter Walser's most famous wines, based on a true story with a happy ending about mistaken identity. Made with Grenache from Braam Marais' farm in Piekenierskloof, it's a refined, layered, fynbos-scented red with graceful tannins, lots of zip and minerality and flavours of pomegranate, strawberry and rooibos tea." - Tim Atkin MW
David & Nadia Grenache Noir 2023 Magnum
"Four different vineyards on iron, granite, schist and clay soils, supply the fruit for this impressive Swartland Grenache. Fermented with 60% whole bunches followed by a further month on skins, this is deceptively light and ethereal, with redcurrant, strawberry and pomegranate flavours, fine-boned tannins and a mineral core." - Tim Atkin MW
David & Nadia “Elpidios” 2022 Magnum
"Featuring a highest ever Grenache component, Elpidios is completed by 35% Syrah, 3% Carignan and 1% each of Pinotage and Cinsault. Grippy, racy and beautifully balanced, it has rose petal and fynbos aromas, negligible oak, some clove spice from 50% whole bunches and flavours of cranberry, bramble and red cherry." - Tim Atkin MW
David & Nadia “Aristargos” 2023 Magnum
"Chenin Blanc based, with the other 49% made up of eight different, mostly Mediterranean varieties, this is a beautifully judged assemblage from David and Nadia Sadie. Curated in neutral oak, with subtle bitterness from partial skin contact, it has enticing layers of passion fruit, pear and lemongrass and a stony, slightly salty finish." - Tim Atkin MW
David & Nadia Chenin Blanc 2023 Magnum
"Our bread and butter", is how David Sadie describes this old-vine Chenin Blanc, sourced from eight different sites on the Paardeberg, most of which are on granite. Earthy, stony, layered and refreshing, it offers scents of fennel and lanolin and a palate of citrus, green apple, leesy complexity and a palate-cleansing finish." - Tim Atkin MW
David & Nadia “Elpidios” 2022
"Featuring a highest ever Grenache component, Elpidios is completed by 35% Syrah, 3% Carignan and 1% each of Pinotage and Cinsault. Grippy, racy and beautifully balanced, it has rose petal and fynbos aromas, negligible oak, some clove spice from 50% whole bunches and flavours of cranberry, bramble and red cherry." - Tim Atkin MW
David & Nadia Grenache Noir 2023
"Four different vineyards on iron, granite, schist and clay soils, supply the fruit for this impressive Swartland Grenache. Fermented with 60% whole bunches followed by a further month on skins, this is deceptively light and ethereal, with redcurrant, strawberry and pomegranate flavours, fine-boned tannins and a mineral core." - Tim Atkin MW
David & Nadia Aristargos 2023
"Chenin Blanc based, with the other 49% made up of eight different, mostly Mediterranean varieties, this is a beautifully judged assemblage from David and Nadia Sadie. Curated in neutral oak, with subtle bitterness from partial skin contact, it has enticing layers of passion fruit, pear and lemongrass and a stony, slightly salty finish." - Tim Atkin MW
David & Nadia Chenin Blanc 2023
"Our bread and butter", is how David Sadie describes this old-vine Chenin Blanc, sourced from eight different sites on the Paardeberg, most of which are on granite. Earthy, stony, layered and refreshing, it offers scents of fennel and lanolin and a palate of citrus, green apple, leesy complexity and a palate-cleansing finish." - Tim Atkin MW
Rall Concrete Syrah 2023
"This 3 release of the Syrah made from one of the schist vineyards used for the Ava, was picked early, fermented naturally with 100% whole bunches and aged only in concrete to preserve the primary fruit and crunchy tannins of Syrah grown on these soils.
Even with a modest alc of only 12.5% this wine has a beautiful gripping structure, savoury palate and very expressive nose of fynbos, meat and dark spices. 4844 bottles produced" - Winemaker's notes
Rall White 2023 Magnum
"This blend of Chenin Blanc 71%, Verdelho 26% and Viognier 3% that started it all for Rall wines back in 2008 now already in its 16th vintage remains the cornerstone of what we do. No other wine in the portfolio has achieved the level of consistency year on year over the last decade or so and this 2023 is no differnet.
Even after 7 consecutive 5 star Platters ratings this wine I believe is another step up. Grapes are still grown mainly in the ancient granitic soils of the Paardeberg and now also contains a big portion of fruit from the oldest vineyard we work with planted in 1969. All components are fermented naturally and matured separately in a combination of 2000 litre foudre, seasoned small French oak, concrete eggs and amphora before blending and bottling after 10 months with minimal filtration." - Winemaker's notes
Rall Grenache Blanc 2023
"From 2 vineyards in this vintage predominantly the same high altitude bush vines from Piekenierskloof and another vineyard grown on schist.
In the cellar the grapes were whole-bunch pressed and transferred without settling straight to 2 concrete eggs for fermentation and maturation. This vintage has more texture than recent years, flintiness and a touch of reduction typical of early harvested grapes fermented in concrete. As always bottled early after only 8 months to preserve the freshness of this wine. 5652 bottles produced" - Winemaker's notes
Rall Cinsault 2023
"Now mainly from Darling old vines planted in 1982 and grown on iron rich clay soils. Semi-carbonic fermentation occurs naturally using 100% whole-bunches before aging for 8 months in 3000 liter Foudre and older small French oak barrels. The 2023 has lots of layers and some beautiful red fruit with crunchy, coated tannins from the stems and fresh acidity to bring the balance. No doubt our most serious Cinsault offering to date." - Winemaker's notes
Rall Red 2022
"Purple and red fruit, herbs, olives and white pepper from the whole-bunch fermentation with a clean focused palate. 100% Whole bunch fermented and matured in a combination of 3000 liter foudre, concrete and old French oak for 10 months before being bottled unfined and lightly filtered and then given a Further 18 months bottle maturation before release.
This red wine will drink well now but should no doubt reward patience and only gain drinkability and complexity over the next decade or more." - Winemaker's notes
Rall White 2023
"This blend of Chenin Blanc 71%, Verdelho 26% and Viognier 3% that started it all for Rall wines back in 2008 now already in its 16th vintage remains the cornerstone of what we do. No other wine in the portfolio has achieved the level of consistency year on year over the last decade or so and this 2023 is no differnet.
Even after 7 consecutive 5 star Platters ratings this wine I believe is another step up. Grapes are still grown mainly in the ancient granitic soils of the Paardeberg and now also contains a big portion of fruit from the oldest vineyard we work with planted in 1969. All components are fermented naturally and matured separately in a combination of 2000 litre foudre, seasoned small French oak, concrete eggs and amphora before blending and bottling after 10 months with minimal filtration." - Winemaker's notes
Steytler Vision 2021
Alheit Vineyards Hemelrand Vine Garden 2023.
"We had lovely moderate temperatures during the ripening season, punctuated by regular rain. The Chenin blanc in particular starting developing beautiful dry noblerot (botrytis) several days before picking. We always have some noble rot in Hemelrand, but the amount and the quality thereof in 2023 separates this vintage from all previous. The nose shows the classic stone fruit and exotic flavours that we expect from Vine Garden, but then there’s dried orange peel and apricot from the noble berries. The palate is full and quite powerful. The usual high acidity carries the whole wine to along, tapered finish." - The Winemaker's notes