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Conceito “Contraste” White 2019
"The 2019 Contraste Branco is a blend of traditional white grapes, like Rabigato, Códega, Códega do Larinho, Arinto, from mostly 20+-year-old vines at 600 meters in altitude, all co-fermented (wild ferment) in a 70/30 mixture of stainless steel and new French oak for eight months. It comes in at 13% alcohol. An elegant and lovely Contraste, it's a little lean but fresh, pure and lively. The fruit is lifted by the acidity and the flavors linger nicely. This is enticing for its balance and its youthful freshness. The only thing that might hold this back is the question of whether it stays at this level for most of its useful life. Can it develop? I won't be surprised if it lasts a decade from the vintage date, more or less, but whether it is this good in 2025 might be a different question. We'll see. It drinks great now, and today you'll like it better than the score suggests. It will also be great next summer." - Mark Squires, The Wine Advocate
Conceito White 2019
"The 2019 Branco, the estate flagship, is a field blend from old (centenarian) vines at 600 meters in altitude aged for 10 months in used French oak. Principal grapes include common Douro white grapes, like Rabigato, Códega, Códega do Larinho, Cerceal, Gouveio and others. Very dry, the residual sugar is nominal and the total acidity comes in at 7.1 grams per liter. It comes in at 12.9% alcohol. Average in concentration—this is never a fat and fruity white, to be sure—this shows reasonably good structure, but there is a reductive issue on the nose. It is smoky and flinty. The rest is pretty nice, but the smoke—reduction, I presume—has to blow off. It often does with aeration or time. In the meanwhile, let's be a bit conservative. Give it some air if you open it in the near future. Call this a compromise ." - Mark Squires, The Wine Advocate
