2022
BLANKbottle Autumn Equinox 2022
"This is a blend of Weisser Riesling, Semillon and Sauvignon blanc from Elgin
DISCLAIMER: I am no activist and I don't belong to any kind of organisation. I pick grapes from everywhere and respect each area for its contribution to a specific wine. In this newsletter however, I’m focusing on what Elgin does well and exploring the possible relevance of the Autumn Equinox theory. The Autumn Equinox theory… The more I learn about farming and wine, the more I wonder how the olden-day farmers decided what to plant where. Nowadays, before planting, farmers make use of professionals who scan the soil and dissect and analyse the different soil layers, physically as well as chemically. They study topographical data and in some cases make use of satellites and even drones. They construct terroir models in order to understand… Viticulturists (like Jaco Engelbrecht who works for me on a consultancy basis) also map the great Grand Cru vineyards of Europe which enables them to compare our new sites to the greats of the world.
All this is done with one goal in mind: figuring out what to plant where! Ultimately, however, they feed from decisions made in ancient times. Times when they got it right without satellites, drones and engineering surveyors. Times when they had time to observe… One such approach that was often used, is the Autumn Equinox theory. In the Northern Hemisphere the autumnal equinox falls on 22/23 September, as the sun crosses the celestial equator on its way south. In the Southern Hemisphere the Autumn equinox occurs on 20/21 March, when the sun moves back north across the equator - otherwise known as the “Harvest moon". Traditionally it marked the end of the harvest season, where they took stock of what was grown and gathered and gave thanks for what they had received. So their theory was very simple: plant whatever crop ripens a few days before, on, or after (basically as close as possible to) the Autumn Equinox. And that got me thinking about Elgin. During February and early March when the heat waves hit the Western Cape, grapes in Elgin are still green, with sugars around 16° Balling.
The vines have plenty of energy to sustain the heat and by the time the heat waves have passed, moderate temperatures take the grapes through a mild, slow ripening phase. This enables the vines to produce fully ripe grapes. And then, on the Autumn Equinox, the grapes usually have a sugar content of 21 - 23° balling, which is when we pick. So today I decided to release a mixed case of ELGIN wines (including a brand new wine in our portfolio) - stuff that ripened on 23 March, 28 March and a blend with a average picking time at the Autumn Equinox" - Winemaker' notes
Domaine Juliette Avril Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022
The 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape from Domaine Juliette Avril, a blend of 65% Grenache Noir, 25% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, reveals a gently oxidized character with aromas of dried thyme, spices, garrigue, plum and dried plum, followed by a medium to full-bodied, elegant palate with a juicy core of fruit, structured tannins and a firm, penetrating finish. This is a rather old-fashioned Châteauneuf-du-Pape. - Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate
David & Nadia “Elpidios” 2022 Magnum
"Featuring a highest ever Grenache component, Elpidios is completed by 35% Syrah, 3% Carignan and 1% each of Pinotage and Cinsault. Grippy, racy and beautifully balanced, it has rose petal and fynbos aromas, negligible oak, some clove spice from 50% whole bunches and flavours of cranberry, bramble and red cherry." - Tim Atkin MW
David & Nadia “Elpidios” 2022
"Featuring a highest ever Grenache component, Elpidios is completed by 35% Syrah, 3% Carignan and 1% each of Pinotage and Cinsault. Grippy, racy and beautifully balanced, it has rose petal and fynbos aromas, negligible oak, some clove spice from 50% whole bunches and flavours of cranberry, bramble and red cherry." - Tim Atkin MW
Domaine Philippe Alliet Chinon Tradition 2022
"The young 2022 Chinon is reductive and needs some breathing time—ideally, time in bottle. It's rather raw and uptight due to its youth. It reminds me of someone scrunching up their eyes and hunching their shoulders, as if waiting for something bad to happen. But underneath all that tension of youth, there is creamy, juicy red fruit and spice, and evidently less crunchiness than in 2021. While it needs time, its level of concentration and modest tannins suggest this is one that would be best consumed before the decade is out." - Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous
Rall Red 2022
"Purple and red fruit, herbs, olives and white pepper from the whole-bunch fermentation with a clean focused palate. 100% Whole bunch fermented and matured in a combination of 3000 liter foudre, concrete and old French oak for 10 months before being bottled unfined and lightly filtered and then given a Further 18 months bottle maturation before release.
This red wine will drink well now but should no doubt reward patience and only gain drinkability and complexity over the next decade or more." - Winemaker's notes
Saint Cosme Côtes-du-Rhône Rouge 2022 Magnum
Saint Cosme Côtes-du-Rhône Rouge 2022," An 80-20 blend of Syrah and Grenache, sourced from the Gard and Vinsobres, the 2022 Cotes du Rhone offers up outstanding aromas of blueberries and stone fruit, with violet-like floral accents. It's medium to full-bodied, silky and concentrated—apt to make any bargain shopper very happy." - Joe Czerwinski, The Wine Advocate
Saint Cosme Côtes-du-Rhône Rouge 2022
Château de Saint Cosme Côtes-du-Rhône Rouge 2022," An 80-20 blend of Syrah and Grenache, sourced from the Gard and Vinsobres, the 2022 Cotes du Rhone offers up outstanding aromas of blueberries and stone fruit, with violet-like floral accents. It's medium to full-bodied, silky and concentrated—apt to make any bargain shopper very happy." - Joe Czerwinski, The Wine Advocate
Château de Saint Cosme IGP “Les Deux Albion” Blanc 2022
"The wine is relatively aromatic – roughly on a par with Clairette – and develops scents of marshmallow, watermelon, pear and white flowers. On the palate, the acidity is forward or even slightly disjointed. There is
great palatability. Incorporating the aptly named Saint Côme into our collection of white varieties is a worthwhile experience because it takes us back to the pre-phylloxera world of heirloom grape varieties. In 2022, the Deux Albion is fresh, clean and aromatic as always, with some great sourness on the finish – in a vintage like this, this is a surprising but welcome trait" - Winemaker's notes
Domaine Roland Lavantureux Bourgogne Blanc Tonnerre 2022
Domaine Roland Lavantureux Chablis 2022
The 2022 Chablis Village is aged 25% in barrel and 75% in stainless steel. It has a more austere but refreshingly energetic bouquet with green apple and fresh lime aromas. The palate is well-balanced, with a subtle reduction and good depth for its class. The 2022 has a taut line of acidity with hints of walnut and chai on the finish. It is a well-crafted Chablis Village that will age in bottle. Tasted blind at the BIVB tasting in Chablis. - Neal Martin, Vinous
Valenciso Rioja Rosé 2022
"The not-so-pale rosé 2022 Rosa was produced with Tempranillo and aged in tank with lees for eight months. It has a bright pink color and is not a light wine, at 14% alcohol. It shows ripeness and is quite powerful for a rosé. 5,000 bottles were filled in May 2023." - Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
Elio Grasso Langhe Nebbiolo “Gavarini” 2022
"Raised and fermented entirely in stainless steel, the 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo Gavarini is a bright red concentrated hue and delivers expressive aromas of ripe orange peel, delicate clove spice, roses, and fresh raspberries. Medium-bodied, it’s fresh, energetic, and easygoing in nature, with fine tannins, good ripeness, and evenly balanced freshness. Approachable and youthful now, it’s is going to show its best over the next few years." - Jeb Dunnuck
Clos Cantenac Bordeaux Rosé Elégance 2022 Magnum
"Elégance rose - 100% Merlot - once again, the team behind Elégance rosé shows why, if you want good Bordeaux rosé, they are setting the pace. Pale barely-there blush in colour, savoury fruit of redcurrant and pink grapefruit, with rosebuds and a trace of white pepper spice. This is elegant and moreish." - Jane Anson
Clos Cantenac Bordeaux Rosé Elégance 2022
"Elégance rose - 100% Merlot - once again, the team behind Elégance rosé shows why, if you want good Bordeaux rosé, they are setting the pace. Pale barely-there blush in colour, savoury fruit of redcurrant and pink grapefruit, with rosebuds and a trace of white pepper spice. This is elegant and moreish." - Jane Anson
Clos Cantenac L’ Exuberance Rosé 2022 Magnum
"The colour of this wine is a clean bright and instantly appealing pale rose petal pink, almost translucent, with intense and fragrant aromas of luscious wild strawberries, mandarin peel, grapefruit, citrus, and red berries. On the palate it shows the same fine register of complex red summer berry and tropical fruit flavours, with hints of vanilla, a soft attack of smokiness and a savoury finish. It is a very seductive style of rosé, long, fresh and aromatic, yet perfectly balanced by a lovely refreshing acidity, which combines perfectly with the long, dry persistent finish." - Winemaker's notes
Clos Cantenac L’ Exuberance Rosé 2022
"The colour of this wine is a clean bright and instantly appealing pale rose petal pink, almost translucent, with intense and fragrant aromas of luscious wild strawberries, mandarin peel, grapefruit, citrus, and red berries. On the palate it shows the same fine register of complex red summer berry and tropical fruit flavours, with hints of vanilla, a soft attack of smokiness and a savoury finish. It is a very seductive style of rosé, long, fresh and aromatic, yet perfectly balanced by a lovely refreshing acidity, which combines perfectly with the long, dry persistent finish." - Winemakers notes
Thibaud Boudignon Rosé de Loire 2022
Danie Junior Chenin Blanc 2022
Château de Pibarnon Bandol Rosé 2022 Magnum
"The citrusy, mentholated 2022 Bandol Rosé was crafted with a blend of 65% Mourvèdre and 35% Cinsault and matured six months in barrels. It displays aromas of pomegranate, citrus, spring flowers, iodine, jasmine and crushed stones, followed by a beautifully defined texture, a fleshy core of fruit and racy acids that underpin a delicate, well-delineated and calcareous finish. It's going to drink nicely in its youth, but I suspect it will also age gracefully over the next 2-5 years. Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate
Château de Pibarnon Bandol Rosé 2022
"The citrusy, mentholated 2022 Bandol Rosé was crafted with a blend of 65% Mourvèdre and 35% Cinsault and matured six months in barrels. It displays aromas of pomegranate, citrus, spring flowers, iodine, jasmine and crushed stones, followed by a beautifully defined texture, a fleshy core of fruit and racy acids that underpin a delicate, well-delineated and calcareous finish. It's going to drink nicely in its youth, but I suspect it will also age gracefully over the next 2-5 years. Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate
Newton Johnson Family Vineyards Pinot Noir 2022
Newton Johnson Family Vineyards Pinot Noir 2022, "Family Vineyards is an equal combination of north and south-facing sites and is correspondingly self-assured and well balanced. Fermented with 20% whole bunches and aged in 29% new oak, it has lovely weight and freshness, goji berry, pomegranate and wild strawberry flavours and precise, granular tannins." - Tim Atkin MW
Bruno Rocca Dolcetto d’Alba Trifole 2022
"Color: intense, black and deep, with purple reflections
Nose: net and clean scent of ripe fruits (plum, blackberry, cherry). Elegant and profound
Flavour: round and warm, with great softness and good grapes tannins. Dense and embracing, it has average persistence at first taste; lingering aftertaste with hint of almond" - Winemakers notes
