White Blend
Estate Argyros Atlantis White 2023
BLANKbottle Autumn Equinox 2022
"This is a blend of Weisser Riesling, Semillon and Sauvignon blanc from Elgin
DISCLAIMER: I am no activist and I don't belong to any kind of organisation. I pick grapes from everywhere and respect each area for its contribution to a specific wine. In this newsletter however, I’m focusing on what Elgin does well and exploring the possible relevance of the Autumn Equinox theory. The Autumn Equinox theory… The more I learn about farming and wine, the more I wonder how the olden-day farmers decided what to plant where. Nowadays, before planting, farmers make use of professionals who scan the soil and dissect and analyse the different soil layers, physically as well as chemically. They study topographical data and in some cases make use of satellites and even drones. They construct terroir models in order to understand… Viticulturists (like Jaco Engelbrecht who works for me on a consultancy basis) also map the great Grand Cru vineyards of Europe which enables them to compare our new sites to the greats of the world.
All this is done with one goal in mind: figuring out what to plant where! Ultimately, however, they feed from decisions made in ancient times. Times when they got it right without satellites, drones and engineering surveyors. Times when they had time to observe… One such approach that was often used, is the Autumn Equinox theory. In the Northern Hemisphere the autumnal equinox falls on 22/23 September, as the sun crosses the celestial equator on its way south. In the Southern Hemisphere the Autumn equinox occurs on 20/21 March, when the sun moves back north across the equator - otherwise known as the “Harvest moon". Traditionally it marked the end of the harvest season, where they took stock of what was grown and gathered and gave thanks for what they had received. So their theory was very simple: plant whatever crop ripens a few days before, on, or after (basically as close as possible to) the Autumn Equinox. And that got me thinking about Elgin. During February and early March when the heat waves hit the Western Cape, grapes in Elgin are still green, with sugars around 16° Balling.
The vines have plenty of energy to sustain the heat and by the time the heat waves have passed, moderate temperatures take the grapes through a mild, slow ripening phase. This enables the vines to produce fully ripe grapes. And then, on the Autumn Equinox, the grapes usually have a sugar content of 21 - 23° balling, which is when we pick. So today I decided to release a mixed case of ELGIN wines (including a brand new wine in our portfolio) - stuff that ripened on 23 March, 28 March and a blend with a average picking time at the Autumn Equinox" - Winemaker' notes
BLANKbottle Orbitofrontal Cortex 2023
"Twelve different grape varieties make up the blend here, produced by Pieter Walser using his conscious mind. (There was a one-off "unconscious" assemblage as well!) Clairette Blanche, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and Roussanne are all important components, creating a complex, layered white with lime, pear, rose water and orange zest flavours, a nip of tannin and a lingering finish." - Tim Atkin MW
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc “Clos Roquète” 2022
"With notes of pineapple, blanched almonds, white flowers and an elegant touch of reduction, the 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc from Clos la Roquete, a blend of equal parts of Clairette, Grenache and Roussanne, is medium to full-bodied, round and sappy, with a juicy core of fruit, a tense mid-palate and a lactic, floral finish."
David & Nadia “Aristargos” 2023 Magnum
"Chenin Blanc based, with the other 49% made up of eight different, mostly Mediterranean varieties, this is a beautifully judged assemblage from David and Nadia Sadie. Curated in neutral oak, with subtle bitterness from partial skin contact, it has enticing layers of passion fruit, pear and lemongrass and a stony, slightly salty finish." - Tim Atkin MW
David & Nadia Aristargos 2023
"Chenin Blanc based, with the other 49% made up of eight different, mostly Mediterranean varieties, this is a beautifully judged assemblage from David and Nadia Sadie. Curated in neutral oak, with subtle bitterness from partial skin contact, it has enticing layers of passion fruit, pear and lemongrass and a stony, slightly salty finish." - Tim Atkin MW
Rall White 2023 Magnum
"This blend of Chenin Blanc 71%, Verdelho 26% and Viognier 3% that started it all for Rall wines back in 2008 now already in its 16th vintage remains the cornerstone of what we do. No other wine in the portfolio has achieved the level of consistency year on year over the last decade or so and this 2023 is no differnet.
Even after 7 consecutive 5 star Platters ratings this wine I believe is another step up. Grapes are still grown mainly in the ancient granitic soils of the Paardeberg and now also contains a big portion of fruit from the oldest vineyard we work with planted in 1969. All components are fermented naturally and matured separately in a combination of 2000 litre foudre, seasoned small French oak, concrete eggs and amphora before blending and bottling after 10 months with minimal filtration." - Winemaker's notes
Rall White 2023
"This blend of Chenin Blanc 71%, Verdelho 26% and Viognier 3% that started it all for Rall wines back in 2008 now already in its 16th vintage remains the cornerstone of what we do. No other wine in the portfolio has achieved the level of consistency year on year over the last decade or so and this 2023 is no differnet.
Even after 7 consecutive 5 star Platters ratings this wine I believe is another step up. Grapes are still grown mainly in the ancient granitic soils of the Paardeberg and now also contains a big portion of fruit from the oldest vineyard we work with planted in 1969. All components are fermented naturally and matured separately in a combination of 2000 litre foudre, seasoned small French oak, concrete eggs and amphora before blending and bottling after 10 months with minimal filtration." - Winemaker's notes
Château Lafleur Grand Village Blanc 2021
"Regularly one of the standout dry white wines from the Bordeaux appellation, the 2021 Blanc, a blend of 73% Sauvignon Blanc (picked on the 9th, 11th and 13th of September) and 27% Sémillon (picked on the 7th of September), offers up a fresh, delicate and elegant bouquet with aromas of lemon oil, lemon, spices, lime tree leaves, menthol and perfectly ripe orchard fruits. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and racy, it's layered and seamless, its concentrated core of fruit underpinned by racy acids, concluding with a calcareous, saline finish." - Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate
Château de Saint Cosme IGP “Les Deux Albion” Blanc 2022
"The wine is relatively aromatic – roughly on a par with Clairette – and develops scents of marshmallow, watermelon, pear and white flowers. On the palate, the acidity is forward or even slightly disjointed. There is great palatability. Incorporating the aptly named Saint Côme into our collection of white varieties is a worthwhile experience because it takes us back to the pre-phylloxera world of heirloom grape varieties. In 2022, the Deux Albion is fresh, clean and aromatic as always, with some great sourness on the finish – in a vintage like this, this is a surprising but welcome trait" - Winemaker's notes
Alheit Vineyards Hemelrand Vine Garden 2023.
"We had lovely moderate temperatures during the ripening season, punctuated by regular rain. The Chenin blanc in particular starting developing beautiful dry noblerot (botrytis) several days before picking. We always have some noble rot in Hemelrand, but the amount and the quality thereof in 2023 separates this vintage from all previous. The nose shows the classic stone fruit and exotic flavours that we expect from Vine Garden, but then there’s dried orange peel and apricot from the noble berries. The palate is full and quite powerful. The usual high acidity carries the whole wine to along, tapered finish." - The Winemaker's notes
Keermont Fleurfontein 2022
"Yellow gold in colour, the Fleurfontein 2022 exudes aromas of dried apricot, litchi, and pineapple with hints of almond, vanilla and sweet spice. The palate is full and creamy with concentrated flavours of dried fruit, honey vanilla biscuit and a touch of grassy freshness. A central core of acidity gives the wine a long, complex, caramel finish. Drink now through to 2035." - Winemaker's notes
Oremus Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 1999 – 500ml
"The 1999 Tokaji Aszu 5-Puttonyos has moved more toward secondary aromas compared to the millennial wine, with scents of candle wax, dried mango, peach skin and a faint trace of mulled wine. The palate is actually better than the nose suggests. It is extremely well-balanced with better acidity (10.8 grams per liter). There is very good weight here, with pure notes of dried mango, peach, quince and citrus lemon. It is very harmonious and the finish has a sense of effortlessness that makes this utterly adorable. What is more, you can see it lasting another two decade with ease. Drink now-2035." - Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate
Vega-Sicilia Oremus Aszu 5ptt 50cl 2016
"Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2016 is a bright golden colour and has the characteristic aromas of ripe apricot, honey, and citric nuances of grapefruit. It is complex and rich with a refreshing finish, typical of a classic sweet Tokaji wine, without forgetting the acidity perfectly balancing the sweetness." - Winemaker’s note
J.L. Chave Sélection Hermitage Blanc Blanche 2019
"Another incredible white from this family is the 2019 Hermitage Blanc, a powerful, concentrated, and remarkably pure Hermitage that has laser-like focus as well as textbook Marsanne notes of quince, green almond, powdered rock, licorice, and spice. It’s still tight, focused, and inward at present, yet it reminds me of the 2018 with its purity and rare mix of power and elegance. It’s worth trying a bottle any time over the coming 3-5 years, but after that, I’d recommend waiting until after 2031. 98+" - Jeb Dunnuck
J.L. Chave Sélection Crozes-Hermitage Blanc “Sybèle” 2021
Oremus Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2014 – 500ml
"Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2014 is a bright golden colour and has the characteristic aromas of ripe apricot, honey, and citric nuances of grapefruit. It is complex and rich with a refreshing finish, typical of a classic sweet Tokaji wine, without forgetting the acidity perfectly balancing the sweetness." Winemaker's note
Keermont Fleurfontein 2021
"Consistently among the Cape's sweet wine elite, this is an unusual blend of Sauvignon Blanc and 24% Roussanne. Naturally fermented in French and Hungarian oak, it has layers of passion fruit, pineapple and mango, intense 225 grams of residual sugar and a tangy, tartetatin finish. The volatile acidity is commendably low for the style." - Tim Atkin MW
Conceito White 2019
"The 2019 Branco, the estate flagship, is a field blend from old (centenarian) vines at 600 meters in altitude aged for 10 months in used French oak. Principal grapes include common Douro white grapes, like Rabigato, Códega, Códega do Larinho, Cerceal, Gouveio and others. Very dry, the residual sugar is nominal and the total acidity comes in at 7.1 grams per liter. It comes in at 12.9% alcohol. Average in concentration—this is never a fat and fruity white, to be sure—this shows reasonably good structure, but there is a reductive issue on the nose. It is smoky and flinty. The rest is pretty nice, but the smoke—reduction, I presume—has to blow off. It often does with aeration or time. In the meanwhile, let's be a bit conservative. Give it some air if you open it in the near future. Call this a compromise ." - Mark Squires, The Wine Advocate
