Pontoni took over the family vineyards after his father, Nello, passed away. This reclusive maverick owns a mere four hectares of vineyards and rents another nine. He works in unassuming cellars where he transforms his minuscule yields of a dozen different varieties into complex, taut and impeccably balanced wines. Pontoni’s philosophy quite simply relies on old vines, very low yields and an obsessive dedication to the land.
All wines are barrel fermented, of which about 40% go into new French oak. Processes in the cellar remain rustic – discarding malolactic fermentation (except for the Chardonnay) and unconcerned with temperature control. Wines are bottled per vineyard to highlight the subtle changes from one to the next. It’s not just his whites that are worth seeking out – he makes two Merlots, “Filip” (from Rosazzo) and “Buri” (from Buttrio) of which the former is generally rounder and more approachable as opposed to the Buri which is often firmer, more structured and complex. In addition, he makes a wine from the local Refosco grape called “Calvari”, aged in 100% new wood – this too has carved out cult status.
These are arguably Italy’s greatest white wines. If you can find them, buy them.
“Enzo Pontoni literally lives in his vineyards, at home only for lunch and dinner. I can’t remember many wines that I would rather have on my dining table. The wines are among the best that have ever been produced anywhere.” – Robert Parker